

The 18,000 hectare park (by comparison the Serengeti is 1.47 million hectares) is centred around the soda lake, which in turn is home to so many flamingos that from a distance it appears pink. The lake shore is the only place were you can alight from your vehicle, giving you a close up view of the flamingos, storks and pelicans, while standing on a spongy surface formed entirely from decaying feathers.


After our final night in a tent (for the next week at least), we had another early game drive - fortunately, as we are almost on the equator, there was no need to huddle inside the sleeping bags. After a couple of hours, we got the chance to see how the other half lives; with coffee at Lion Hill Lodge. Sitting overlooking the pool, which in turn overlooks the lake, I wondered what the upgrade price is – we're coming back here in a week's time, and Kirsten will be back for a third time while I'm wheezing my way up Kilimanjaro.

So back to Nairobi: we're going to fly out to Lamu for five days of doing nothing; Ed is flying off to see the gorillas; Doris is off to the garage to have her innards looked at; and everyone else is flying home.

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