Budapest

The train from Sarajevo to Budapest should take 12 hours (that's to cover a distance of some 200 miles) - our train took 15! The train left Sarajevo at 0714 with only two carriages and no buffet car. We had 2 bottles of coke; 2 packets of paprika flavored crisps; and a Snickers.
We rolled slowly to the Croatian border, stopped for a while. Rolled on to the Hungarian border - stopped for longer and had my bag searched. We then rolled into some sidings and just stopped. Every few hours we'd move a bit and add some carriages, and at about 6pm we pulled into Pécs - at this point I was ready to eat Kirsten - fortunately I was able to forage for food on the platform. Saved from certain starvation, we pulled into Budapest at 10ish.

Budapest is a proper, large capital city, full of beautiful buildings - somewhat like London in that respect. Yesterday we did hilly Buda, with its magnificent palace/castle overlooking the Danube. We decided to go cheese in the evening with a dinner cruise - this is everything you'd expect - we arrived to "Blue Danube" and were then treated to the greatest hits of Strauss II.



We started day two (late) in the famous Gellért fürdő thermal spa. This place is a mix of medicinal and opulent, and if you wander too far from the grand central pool it does feel like you've stumbled into a soviet era sanatorium. The thermal areas are single sex, which is fine given that I can't take a sauna for more than five minutes without my head exploding. The outside area, while nice, is suffering from faded glory (there was a large fenced off area and the outside of the building is in scaffolding, so perhaps they're rectifying this).

Lunch was at Govinda's - and that's a meal that stays with you a few days - than on to the Terror House. This is a museum dedicated to repression by totalitarian governments; however it really can't make up its mind whether it's a museum or an art gallery, and this somewhat detracts from its impact.

We failed to make it to any more museums (making the Budapest card a bloody waste of money), but meandered round the city park and down to Hero's square, before stocking up on provisions for the uneventful train journey to Krakow.



As a footnote; while I was writing this late at night, a bloke came into the business centre and started watching hardcore gay porn on the terminal next to me. Call me old fashioned, but this seemed to create an awkward atmosphere that drove me out.




Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Art'otel, Budapest (http://www.artotel.hu/) - We splashed out a little on this 4-star “design” hotel, on the Buda side of the Danube, for Richard's birthday. It had everything you would expect from an international hotel but disappointed somewhat on the “design” front. The room was tastefully decorated in neutral colours and had a great river view, but certainly wasn't original. Breakfast wasn't included, but was billed as the “best in Budapest” so we gave it a go – breakfasts are obviously not great in this part of the world as this one was decidedly mediocre. Free internet access in the business centre was a plus though (see comment above about using this late at night).

Sarajevo

OK, this is not necessarily a classically pretty city and it offers little in the way of museums etc. However it does have a rather unique charm with its coffee shops and copper workshops amongst a labyrinthine of alleyways - at first this seems rather touristy and false, but it's not. It's a vibrant city with mosques and churches on the same square, and a people who, at least on the surface, seem to have shrugged off the horrors of the past.


Many of the buildings were either badly damaged or destroyed in the three years of shelling. Much money has poured in for restoration since then, and to very good effect - however some bars have tried to recreate an olde-worlde charm, which done badly can look like an O'Neil's. One building that does standout is the former national library (Franz Ferdinand's last engagement before being assassinated up the road) , which was deliberately targeted with incendiary bombs, and now stands as an empty shell.

All in all a good place to chill out for a fews days. If you're passing through I would highly recommend Guest House Rose.



Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Guest House Rose, Sarajevo (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/GuestHouseRose-Sarajevo-17351) – This friendly family run guest house is located in a residential area near the brewery but is only a couple of minutes walk from the old town. Our room was a good size and clean with lovely views over Sarajevo from the balcony. We were picked up from the train station at no extra change. A large breakfast was available for a small additional charge. This was a comfortable place to stay and definitely good value for money.

Mostar

After around two and half hours on the bus with a suicidal driver (sick bags were handed out 10 minutes after leaving town) trying to enjoy the spectacular views of the Dalmatian Coast (no actual dalmatians unfortunately), we arrived in Mostar. Our instructions from the guest house we had booked were to call on arrival which we duly did. After a very confused conversation with a guy I assumed was the guest house owner we were pretty amazed when he turned up at the bus station to pick us up. During the journey into town he gave us a running commentary of the sights in what I think was a combination of German and Bosnian: bombed out school, bombed out bank (I was slightly concerned at this point given we didn't have enough money on us to pay for the accommodation), bombed out government buildings... you get the picture.

We were very pleased when we arrived at the guest house as we had a lovely room right in the old town, only moments form the new 'old' bridge. The old Ottoman town, although tiny is very atomsopheric with cobbled streets, 16th-century mosques, old Turkish houses and restaurants clinging to the rocky river banks all viewing for the perfect view of the bridge. In particular once the day trippers have cleared out the atmosphere was pretty chilled and it felt like a place you could very happily while away the hours sipping coffee.

However, just one street back from the restored area backing onto the river there is a constant and poignant reminder of the area's horrific recent history. It is very hard to find a building that doesn't have some evidence of shell or gun damage and many buildings are still completely ruined.

During our first dinner out we experienced another wonderful dose of local hospitality. It appeared that the restaurant owner was dinning and he had a group of guest with him who could only be described as looking like Bosnian Mafioso. This has sent our poor waiter into a complete panic. The final straw was when Richard asked for the Vegetarian Plate. Apparently vegetables take far to long to prepare and the kitchen was currently too busy. When Richard looked somewhat crestfallen when he offered a tomato salad, the waiter looked exasperated, saying "what do you expect, this is Bosnia".

We had a very surreal end to the evening, watching a Spanish band do a cover of Sex Pistol's "Anarchy in the UK" (in Spanish) on the bank of the river in the shadow of the Mostar bridge.

In all, I would definitely recommend a visit to Mostar. After two nights we rose early to catch the train to Sarajevo.

Here's a video of a bloke jumping from the bridge - they do it for cold cash these days.


Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Pansion Gracia i Andy, Mostar (http://www.hostelworld.com/availability.php/PansionGraciaiAndy-Mostar-22694) – This modern and stylishly decorated apartment is unbelievably well located moments from the old bridge. Our room was a really good size with separate table and chairs and a digital TV. Despite a slightly odd smell coming from the bathroom, the place was spotless. The guy who runs the place speaks very little English but he was very friendly and helpful nonetheless and somehow we were able to communicate. He provided us with free transfer to and from the train station even though we left very early in the morning. Excellent value for money - I would highly recommend staying here.

Dubrovnik

After a lengthy wait at the border we successfully found our hotel with only the crappy map from the Lonely Planet (with doesn't distinguish between roads and footpaths) and Kirsten's excellent sign language communication - a nice enough, if over priced, 2-star hotel in Lapad, about 2.5km from the old town. This is very much the hotel area, and the sea front restaurants had the ubiquitous bloke with keyboard murdering easy listening classics - we found a good place out of earshot.




The next day we drove to the old town and dumped the car back with the hire place. Dubrovnik Stari Grad is bigger and more impressive than Kotar, with the city enclosed by high walls 2km in length - we waited 'till the full heat of midday before tackling the walk round the ramparts. The city was shelled by Serbian forces, but there is little obvious evidence today, bar the new roof tiles. Whilst there were a lot of tourists, it wasn't overwhelming, and the narrow streets that rise away from the main boulevard felt quiet.

However, when we popped back the next morning things were different, with long queues to get onto the ramparts and hoards of guided groups flooding the open spaces. We found sanctuary in a vegetarian restaurant one street north of the Pile gate (a bold business venture in such a meat loving place). The reason for the crowds became apparent when we got to the bus station for our exit to Mostar, with two huge cruise ships parked in the dock (look at this monstrosity http://www.cruisereviews.com/RoyalCaribbean/BrillianceoftheSeas21.htm).

Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Hotel Sumratin, Dubrovnik (http://www.hotels-sumratin.com/index.php?action=sumratin) – We struggled to find somewhere at a decent price at short notice in Dubrovnik so ended up at his 2-star hotel in the Lapad area of Dubrovnik. The hotel was about what you expect for one in this category, although our room was a good size. Lapad is a touristy beach area with plentiful restaurants. There are frequent buses to the old town, but unfortunately we found in the morning it was difficult to get on one as they were so busy. A better value option in Dubrovnik is to book an apartment but I would recommend doing this in advance as we found this difficult to arrange the day before. Alternatively you could trust your luck and go with one of the people peddling apartments at the bus station.

Kotor

We decided not to take the coastal road from Budva to Kotor, but take the winding road into the mountains to the former capital, Cetinje. This is a funny old place, where grand former embassies seem misplaced in this sleepy, slightly inaccessible town. From Cetinje we climbed further before emerging at the top of the gorge looking down on the bay of Kotor some 1000m (almost vertically) below us. The view is breathtaking, but does induce vertigo and slight panic when you realise what you have to drive down. 40 minutes of hairpin bends later we arrive in Kotor, which is as spectacular looking up at the imposing montains as it was looking down on the town.

The old town itself blows Budva out the water. Its warren of alleyways lead to delightful squares with plenty of coffee shops to people watch from (high heels and mini skirts are the national dress, and the woman seem to do circuits of the old town), all set with an impressive mountain backdrop.

While there are no real beaches to speak of, a swim in the Fjord is necessary to deal with the heat, and provides good views of the surrounding mountains.

We're now in Herceg Novi, the last town in Montenegro before we cross back into Croatia and on to Dubrovnik.




Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Hotel Sind, Kotor (http://www.sindcentar.cg.yu/) - There is a bit of a shortage of hostels in Kotor so we ended up in this hotel. It is actually about 25mins walk around the fiord from the old town in settlement called Muo, however as there is no pavement and the road is very narrow this is not a very relaxed walk especially in the dark. Taxi's are however, pretty cheap providing you don't get ripped off – make sure they use the meter. Our room was pretty standard, although did have a small balcony with lovely views across the fiord to the old town. Breakfast was included but you had to have this before 9:30 and it consisted of a greasy omelet. A better option might be to try and find an apartment in or nearer the old town.

Budva - a Balkan Blackpool?

Serbian hospitality: thought it might be an idea to book seat reservations for the 10 hour Belgrade to Bar train, so pitched up at the first window to be told "it's full", without her looking anything up. Confused, we went to another window where we were duly sold the tickets - I think it's full/closed is a euphemism for "I can't be arsed to help you". That evening we sought real Serbian food at "?" (that's the name). Being the kind soul I am, we swapped tables, giving a group of 4 our larger table. Even after this was explained to the waiter, he dumped our food on the old table, refused to move it and swore at us in Serbian.

The train to Bar was billed as scenic, so we opted to do it in the day. The train was packed, with a huge number of people smoking in the corridor outside our compartment (the Serbs really love to smoke). The light didn't work, but that didn't seem too much of a problem until we hit the first of many tunnels and were plunged into pitch darkness. In fact half the 12 hours journey (2 hours late is standard) was spent in tunnels, from which the train emerging for all too brief views down plummeting gorges. I read by the light of my iPod.

Bar was more pleasant that expected, and after much stupidity on our part we finally picked up the car and drove to the old town. There's little to see here, with no real reconstruction following an earthquake in 1979 that leveled the place. A couple of beers on the sea front was a good end to a hot day.

So on to the Hippo hostel in Budva (nice place if you're passing through). The stretch of slot machines and pole dancing joints along the bleach front is all too Torremolinos meets Blackpool with a touch of Hi-de-hi. OK, when viewed in the evening the old town seems too perfect - it was rebuilt after a 1979 earthquake giving it a sort of film set feel - but a revisit the next day shows it in a different light. The mass of air con units stuck on the back of all the buildings suck both the heat and the charm out of the place.

A taxi boat to the far side of the island dominating the bay provided a tranquil if not exactly pretty beach for our afternoon's sunburning. An evening barbeque at the Hippo (char grilled peppers and melted cheese for us), followed by a bottle of vodka finished off our stay in Budva.

Photos are Sveti Stefan and Bar beach (with beer bottles).


Kirsten's Flashpacker Review
Hostel Montenegro, Bar (http://www.hostelworld.com/countries/montenegrohostels.html) – This place is really self catering apartments than hostel. However, as we got a really large room and it is very centrally located it is great value for money providing you are not looking for a fun hostel to meet other people in.

Hippo Hostel, Budva (http://www.hippohostel.com/) - This is a real travellers' hostel. There is a well equipped kitchen with some communal food, WiFi and a single terminal, activities arranged such as barbecues, a comfortable common area with extensive DVD collection, and a pleasant garden. The hostel is located a little back from the main drag along the beach, but to be honest this is probably a good thing (see Richard's description above). The private room we stayed in was small but adequate. The shared bathrooms are cleaned regularly. The staff were very helpful and the atmosphere was relaxed and fun – a good place to meet other travellers.

EXIT Music

Right here's my thoughts on the rest of EXIT

Friday
The Gossip were amusing enough, playing to a fairly tiny crowd, which could explain why unfortunately(?) Beth kept her clothes on.

Paul Weller hasn't had a good song for 25 years, and spending 80 minutes listening to him drone through his middle-of-the-road back catalog, 'till he finally played Eton Rifles, was somewhat akin to water torture.

Primal Scream were the highlight of the night, playing a tight set that kept the interest of the Serbian crowd who probably didn't know who the hell they were. As a plus the drunk Aussie next to me had sodded off by this point.

Saturday
it's much busier on Saturday due to locals coming in on one day passes. Manu Chao (a sort of Basque Chas & Dave) drew a huge crowd - we watched from some side bushes, with the faint smell of piss.

Sunday
I don't know a lot about Ministry, but thought I'd have a look. Now lads, if you're going to have a microphone stand made from goat skulls, you are going to look a little Spinal Tap.

The Sex Pistols - what can you say? Johnny Rotten looks like he should be on the sex offenders register, they sounded pretty crap, and Johnny's attempts to engage with the audience were cringe worthy.

However Marky Ramone's band (none of whom were in the Ramones) sounded great blasting through the back catalog (all of which are under 2 minutes long), and leaving a pleasant tinnitus for several hours.

We're now back in Belgrade, and will be moving on the Bar (Montenegro) tomorrow.


Kirsten's Flashpacker Review
Hotel Novi Sad, Novi Sad (http://www.hotelnovisad.co.yu/eindex.html) – If you are staying in Novi Sad during Exit and don't want to camp (possibly a good idea as a camper was killed by a falling tree this year), then book as far ahead as possible as accommodation goes very quickly and prices are extortionate. We ended up in this 3-star hotel which is right next to the train station. It is a typical low end business type hotel and is quite a walk into town. If you master the bus system this isn't a problem but we kept getting on the wrong bus so ended up walking miles! Also if you are here during summer it would be a good idea to get air-conditioning. Our room was very pretty hot and it was too noisy to keep the window open – although I have to say much more pleasant than roasting in a tent. Breakfast is included but is pretty nasty.

Downtown Hostel, Belgrade (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/DowntownBelgradeHostel-Belgrade-14494) – This hostel is very conveniently located for the train and bus station and, well... that's the only good thing I have to say about it. Our hearts sank as we climbed up the six flights of stairs in near pitch black darkness past several mangy dogs (and those of you who know me know it must be bad if I'm not excited by the presence of dogs). Definitely don't get the private room. We paid €50 a night for what was essentially a broom cupboard. Once we had pulled the futon into a bed there was enough room to swing a mouse let along a cat. On the plus side however, given the hostel is so small it makes it a good place to meet other travellers. If you are travelling as a couple, a better option might be the Astoria Hotel round the corner for the same price (see below).

Hotel Astoria, Belgrade (http://www.astoria.co.yu/eohotelu.htm) - Not great but much better than the Downtown Hostel. Somewhat dark and dingy in a typical former Yugoslavian style, but the hotel is very convenient for the rail and bus stations and our room had a private bathroom and TV with digital channels.

EXIT

Ljubljana is a charming little place, with a pint sized old town clinging to the foot of the castle hill - a great place to spend a couple of days reading and people watching at a river side cafe.

Alas we had to move east and on to Zagreb. Initially this had none of the charm of Ljubljana - but that's what comes from staying too close to the train station. The old town is nestled on two small hills, and given the amount of restoration work going on, is desperate for UNESCO world heritage status.

While Slovenia felt a bit like Italy, Belgrade defiantly felt like Eastern Europe. It's an ugly city, and our hostel on the 6th floor of a dilapidated apartment block opposite the train station did not make for a pleasant introduction.

OK so we're now in Novi Sad for the EXIT festival, and what an odd place it is. On the way in, along with the no alcohol and no glass signs, was a no Nazi symbolism sign - that speaks volumes. The festival site itself is much smaller than I expected, with tiny stages squeezed into various moats. Predictably enough there are thousands of Brits here, forming the largest non-Serbian group. Tonight it's The Gossip and Primal Scream (oh and Paul Weller).


Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Alibi Hostel, Ljubljana (http://www.alibi.si/hostels/alibi_hostel/) - The main selling point of this hostel is it's excellent location in the middle of the main pedestrianised street in the heart of the old town. As a result it was a little noisy at night but this is reasonable sacrifice for being right in the middle of all of the bars and restaurants. The hostel itself is large and relatively impersonal -you get given linen and reception and have to return it at the end of your stay, check out is at 10, breakfast isn't included, and the two internet terminals were constantly busy. Most disturbingly, however, drinking alcohol is not allowed in the hostel. Despite these disadvantages, it was clean and the central location can't be beaten.

Arcotel Allegra, Zagreb (http://cc.arcotel.at/document.asp?id=1248) – Although marketed as a “design” hotel, this place feels more like a relatively nondescript mid-range business hotel. It is conveniently located for the train station and about a 10 minute walk into the old town. Would recommend trying to find somewhere with more character although our searching indicated that this might not be easy in Zagreb.

Lake Bled

After only 24 hours on three different trains we arrived at Lake Bled - I can't understand why people bother with planes. The Paris - Munich leg was a was a little less luxurious than we'd hoped; our comfortable two berth cabin was downgraded to a less than conformable 4/6 berth with a French couple. Fortunately the frogs kicked up so much of a stink they were found their own cabin.
The Munich - Lesce Bled leg across the Austrian Alps was suitably picturesque; and if we'd had more than an hour's sleep on the night train we might have really appreciated it.
Lake Bled itself is impossibly pretty. Pictures to follow, but here's a link to photos of the fun we had in the Triglav national park.

Edit: finally manged to get on a machine to do photos.



Kirsten's Flashpacker Review:
Hotel Berc, Lake Bled (http://www.berc-sp.si/html/HotelGB.htm) – This place was a real gem. Okay, so the décor isn't exactly trendy (pine, pine and more pine), but the staff were very friendly, our room was large and bathroom spotless. The buffet breakfast was also good, with plenty of fresh bread, cheese and cold meats (enough for us to sneakily make up sandwiches for our lunch).

Glastonbury 2008

So we have started our trip with a long weekend in Somerset.
Still struggling to decide which our favourite Glasto gig was - at the moment it is a close tie between Franz Ferdinand's "secret" appearance in the Park, MGMT's two blistering performances, or Scrumpy and Western mega stars The Wurzels' cover of Don't Look Back in Anger.

Of course some performers are more popular that others; we did end up watching the whole of this guy's set, partly because it we'd left he'd be playing to an empty field.

We've now showered and are considerably less smelly....