Budva - a Balkan Blackpool?

Serbian hospitality: thought it might be an idea to book seat reservations for the 10 hour Belgrade to Bar train, so pitched up at the first window to be told "it's full", without her looking anything up. Confused, we went to another window where we were duly sold the tickets - I think it's full/closed is a euphemism for "I can't be arsed to help you". That evening we sought real Serbian food at "?" (that's the name). Being the kind soul I am, we swapped tables, giving a group of 4 our larger table. Even after this was explained to the waiter, he dumped our food on the old table, refused to move it and swore at us in Serbian.

The train to Bar was billed as scenic, so we opted to do it in the day. The train was packed, with a huge number of people smoking in the corridor outside our compartment (the Serbs really love to smoke). The light didn't work, but that didn't seem too much of a problem until we hit the first of many tunnels and were plunged into pitch darkness. In fact half the 12 hours journey (2 hours late is standard) was spent in tunnels, from which the train emerging for all too brief views down plummeting gorges. I read by the light of my iPod.

Bar was more pleasant that expected, and after much stupidity on our part we finally picked up the car and drove to the old town. There's little to see here, with no real reconstruction following an earthquake in 1979 that leveled the place. A couple of beers on the sea front was a good end to a hot day.

So on to the Hippo hostel in Budva (nice place if you're passing through). The stretch of slot machines and pole dancing joints along the bleach front is all too Torremolinos meets Blackpool with a touch of Hi-de-hi. OK, when viewed in the evening the old town seems too perfect - it was rebuilt after a 1979 earthquake giving it a sort of film set feel - but a revisit the next day shows it in a different light. The mass of air con units stuck on the back of all the buildings suck both the heat and the charm out of the place.

A taxi boat to the far side of the island dominating the bay provided a tranquil if not exactly pretty beach for our afternoon's sunburning. An evening barbeque at the Hippo (char grilled peppers and melted cheese for us), followed by a bottle of vodka finished off our stay in Budva.

Photos are Sveti Stefan and Bar beach (with beer bottles).


Kirsten's Flashpacker Review
Hostel Montenegro, Bar (http://www.hostelworld.com/countries/montenegrohostels.html) – This place is really self catering apartments than hostel. However, as we got a really large room and it is very centrally located it is great value for money providing you are not looking for a fun hostel to meet other people in.

Hippo Hostel, Budva (http://www.hippohostel.com/) - This is a real travellers' hostel. There is a well equipped kitchen with some communal food, WiFi and a single terminal, activities arranged such as barbecues, a comfortable common area with extensive DVD collection, and a pleasant garden. The hostel is located a little back from the main drag along the beach, but to be honest this is probably a good thing (see Richard's description above). The private room we stayed in was small but adequate. The shared bathrooms are cleaned regularly. The staff were very helpful and the atmosphere was relaxed and fun – a good place to meet other travellers.