Tsumago

After several large cities we decided it was time to see a more rural slide of Japan and so headed into Central Honshu. To get to the small village that we selected from the guidebook somewhat randomly required us to take three different trains and a bus. This all went with clockwork efficiency – it really helps that the trains are so punctual here.

We arrived in Tsumago, an Edo era post town in the alpine Kiso Valley region, unfortunately in the pouring rain. Surrounded by thick forest, and next to an attractive alpine river, the village has been carefully reconstructed to recreate the picturesque charm of this important rest stop for feudal lords travelling back and forth to Edo, complete with black and white wooden houses, small channels of water and water wheels. Of course this means that there were plenty of Japanese tourists there as well, but perhaps because of the poor weather or that we have missed the peak summer season, it wasn't completely overrun and managed to retain considerable charm.

We spent the night in a traditional Ryoken (Japanese inn). It was, however, one that was used to having Western guests so we duly received instruction on how to wear our (fastening right over left and not vice versa which is a simple of death), use the cedar wood communal bath and eat the various dishes served for dinner. Although the ryoken was a little faded around the edges, it did have a lovely garden complete with enormous Koi. The highlight was the dinner which consisted of a vast array of intricate beautifully presented and scrumptious morsels including baked river fish, river trout sashimi, beef marinated in fresh miso and cooked at the table, and the pièce de résistance – bee larvae. They even managed to produce some pretty decent vegetarian fare for Richard, although they took some convincing that bee larvae was not considered a vegetarian food.

The next day we took a bus to the nearby, and equally pretty, post town of Magome, and did the well sign posted hike back to Tsumago. This was a lovely walk through along the route of the ancient highway through the forest and past a couple of waterfalls.